Category: Uncategorized

Once a seedy rundown area, the south bank of the River Thames was where you made the trek to see a play or concert. Or passed swiftly through its decrepit environs on your way to Waterloo station, or north to the West End or Soho. Thankfully, the area has enjoyed a staggering renaissance over the last 10 to 15 years. Boosted by generous cash injections from the Government and private bodies, such as the South Bank Management Group and the Coin Street Community, the Southbank is now a thriving magnet for tourists, hotels, restaurants, businesses and smart new warehouse conversions. The once-dilapidated Royal Festival Hall has received a much-needed revamp under the auspices of South Bank artistic director, Jude Kelly, and you can now walk along the Thames from Lambeth Bridge to beyond Tower Bridge.

There’s nothing more romantic than wandering along the Embankment at night, taking in a movie or a play post-dinner at one of the many new restaurants in the area. And it’s perfect for families – as well as singletons. The Kinks song, Waterloo Sunset completely captures the whole essence of the South Bank. And thanks to the London Eye, the area is beamed around the world every New Year’s Eve with the best fireworks display ever!

Transport links are fantastic – Waterloo is served by 4 tube lines, but the best thing about the Southbank is that you don’t need any transport – you can walk anywhere: Soho, Covent Garden, Hyde Park, the West End, Westminster, the City – all within a 10 to 20-minute amble. It’s the entertainment centre of the capital with a staggering array of culture on offer, from the Hayward Gallery and National Theatre, Film Theatre, Imax and Young – and Old (under the auspices of Kevin Spacey) Vics to museums to gardens and breezy boat trips along the Thames. The South Bank has it all. You can breathe here – that dirty old river gives this part of the city movement, life and fresh air. I was once a die-hard, north of the river Hampstead gal, but the South Bank’s been my home, my sanctuary and my playground for the past 6 years – I couldn’t live anywhere else! Gina Baksa

History

The whole area has a colourful past – being the place of bear-bating, where the prosperous gentlemen north of the river would come to consort with the local ladies of the night. There was street entertainment a-plenty and Shakespeare founded his Globe theatre here, along the river at Bankside. The whole area was once marshland – prized for its duck hunting, which is why you’ll find road names like Lower Marsh. It was also the city’s market garden – London was only the size of the current City of London at that time – where all the fresh produce was grown.

Housing

Housing in the area is very mixed – from the snazzy apartments at County Hall and the Whitehouse on Belvedere Road (average price for a 1-bed is a shade under £400k), to the housing co-ops on Coin Street – the most notable example being those in the famous Oxo Building. And if you have £700,000 to spare, you could snap up a gorgeous 3-bedroom Georgian terrace in Roupell Street. Farther along the River at Bankside, lofts in the prestigious Bankside Lofts complex are on offer for $1.35 million. Weekly rentals in the SE1 area start at $250 for a studio up to £1,150 for a 1800sq ft, 2-bedroom loft.

Hotels

For out of town visitors, the South Bank is well served by hotels. Top of the range are the Marriott County Hall on Westminster Bridge, the Park Plaza, with great views of the Houses of Parliament and the Park Plaza County Hall. All are within walking distance of the River and the London Eye. Cheaper establishments include the Premier Inn (County Hall), the Days Hotel and the Mad Hatter Hotel.

Shopping

The South Bank has various shopping areas, catering to locals, tourists and weekenders. Supermarkets are small ‘metro’ types and Lower Marsh and The Cut are the area’s main shopping streets, with a good selection of DIY, chemists, coffee shops and general stores. The river frontage by the Festival Hall – known as the Southbank Centre – has a Foyles book store and a music shop. Farther along the River there’s a wonderful area called Gabriel’s Wharf with some great fashion, ceramics and jewelry stores, cafes and even a bike hire. In the famous Oxo Tower Wharf close by, you’ll find more artisan shops, cafes and gallery@oxo – a superb space for photography exhibitions. The Bargehouse tucked just behind, is also a great venue hosting art, design and photography.

Restaurants

What the Southbank lacks in great shopping, it more than makes up for with its eclectic selection of bars and restaurants. The Southbank Centre riverfront boasts a Strada, Giraffe, Wagamama, while trendy Skylon has become a destination restaurant with stunning views of the River Thames. Tucked inside the British Film Institute is Benugo, a great place to lounge with a pre-movie drink, or enjoy a meal in the great restaurant area. Lovers of tasty British cuisine will enjoy the mouth watering offerings at Canteen, on the Belvedere Road side of the Festival Hall, and a short walk away is the Archduke, a wine bar and restaurant beloved of many a commuter, local and tourist. Walking along Belvedere Road towards the London Eye, you can choose from All Bar One, Azzuro (Pizzas), Chili Chutney, Pong and Feng Sushi, Las Iguanas and Neds Noodle Bar among others. Head the other direction towards the Oxo building and you can dine in style at the Oxo Tower Restaurant with panoramic views of the river, enjoy seafood at The Riviera and have lunch or dinner at The Gourmet Pizza Company.

Museums

The South Bank boasts some incredible museums, from Anish Kapoor and Jeff Koons at Bankside’s Tate Modern, to the amazing museum dedicated to Florence Nightingale. War buffs can continue their trail at the Imperial War Museum, while followers of a more gentler hobby can visit the graves of famous botanist and explorer John Tradescant and even Captain Bligh at the Museum of Garden History.

The Southbank Centre

The Southbank is best known for its eponymous arts centre, comprising the National Theatre, Queen Elizabeth Hall, Hayward Gallery and the Purcell Room. Housed in a somewhat Brutalist Sixties concrete hell, the interiors have undergone a major refurb and hosts an eclectic mix of dance, music, spoken word, visual and cinematic artistry.

Green Spaces

Between Gabriel’s Wharf and Oxo Tower Wharf is an oasis of green known as Bernie Spain Gardens – the perfect place to relax – summer or winter. Named after a local resident and campaigner, the gardens play host to the free Coin Street Festival each summer. You can also enjoy a walk in Jubilee Gardens – although not strictly a garden, this patch of land underneath the London Eye was slated for redevelopment in 2003, but as I write (November 2009), no work has taken place.

Theatres and Cinemas

If you love supporting new acting talent, then make your way to the Young Vic (66 The Cut, SE1). Its older sister, the Old Vic is now artistically helmed by Kevin Stacey and he’s doing a fine job of attracting both funding and talent to Waterloo Road. Cinema fans will love the huge expanse of 3D celluloid on offer at the 20m-high, 500-seater IMAX cinema by Waterloo Station. You can also catch up on myriad classics and new movies at the British Film Institute.

Transport

The nearest tube stations are Waterloo, and a little farther along the River, Southwark. Waterloo is a huge bus and tube hub with four tube lines: Northern, Waterloo & City. A selection of buses will take you all over the city and the RV1 runs from Covent Garden (via the SouthBank) all the way to Tower Bridge.

Pubs & Nightlife

The Southbank has a great mix of traditional pubs. The Kings Arms has a quintessential English vibe, where you’ll find locals and commuters. Enjoy typical gastro pub fare at The Anchor & Hope, and sizzle those taste buds with a great Thai meal at The White Hart. The Kings Arms is another great traditional pub, offering fine food and liquid refreshment. Clubs in the area include the iconic Ministry of Sound on Gaunt Street, and on Fridays and Saturdays DJs spin ambient and old skool tunes at Concrete at the Hayward Gallery.

Attractions

The South Bank has become a massively popular tourist destination, with the London Eye its centerpiece and the Aquarium and Dali Universe Museum playing hosts to thousands each weekend. In addition you can take a ride in an amphibious craft on the famous Duck Tours, or lose your lunch on a high-speed RIB boat up to the Tower of London. Of course, most visitors want to experience the high life on the 135-metre London Eye – the huge wheel by the River Thames. If you want your wine buds tickled, then head over to Vinopolis on Bankside for a unique wine-tasting experience to remember!

South Kensington is one of the most affluent London hubs, located in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, to the west and southwest of Charing Cross. South Kensington gravitates around the tube station of the same name, and represents an area known for some of the world’s best museums, elegant real estates, charming tree-lined streets with beautiful squares, and lush gardens.

Until the first half of the 19th century, South Kensington was a rural and farming area, catering to London’s produce markets. In 1851, the Great Exhibition took place in Hyde Park, laying the foundations of today’s exclusive city district. The world’s first Culture and Industry Fair attracted many developers to the area. Lands around Exhibition Road were purchased and buildings were constructed to house the Exhibition’s art and science displays, which later grew into some of the world most renowned contemporary museums. The Exhibition also brought new roads while construction continued to boom. In 1868, the Underground reached South Kensington and the direct connection with the city made the district an integral part of London.

Today, South Kensington boasts some of the most exclusive real estate properties in the United Kingdom. The area is home to well-to-do families and top notch professionals, predominantly working in the financial and commercial London City Center. South Kensington is also the most densely populated municipality in the country while ethnic diversity makes it one of London’s most vibrant communities. In addition to Brits, its residents include non-British Europeans, such as Spaniards and Italians, along with Americans, Australians, South Africans, and Middle Easterners. South Kensington is, however, mostly known as one of the largest French communities outside France. The area is home of the Lycee Francais Charles de Gaulle, where 3,500 students between the ages of 3 and 18 are taught mostly in French and at the French Institute. As an official French government center for language and culture, the Institute offers French cinema presentations, language classes, and even wine tasting. The sizable French presence in South Kensington is felt everywhere – in stores, coffee shops, and restaurants.

Housing

Housing in South Kensington is exclusive, elegant, and expensive. It has been described as eclectic upper-middle class urbanism, including pillar-lined town houses, gorgeous single family homes, and spacious flats and apartments. Prices of townhouses range anywhere between £700,000 to the steep £13,000,000. Apartments go from one to four and a half-million pounds while flats sell for £200,000 for a small studio to a million pounds for a large two or three-bedroom unit. Renting in Kensington is quite expensive and affordable only for the well-do-to professional newcomers. The rent range is between £1,000 a month for a small studio to £26,000 per month for a top of the line, luxury penthouse unit. All areas of the district are considered prime location due to the prestigious schools, renowned cultural institutions, beautiful architecture, and fast connection via the tube to downtown London.

For out-of-town visitors, South Kensington offers some of the best London accommodations, from five-star hotels to small bed and breakfast family inns and elegantly furnished short-term rental apartments.

Museums

South Kensington boasts some of the world’s best museums and most prestigious institutions, all concentrated along Exhibition Road. Visitors are certain to enjoy the Natural History Museum, with its 70 million life and earth science specimens, the Science Museum and its oldest steam locomotive, and the world’s largest museum of decorative arts and design – Victoria and Albert. South Kensington is also the home of the Royal Albert Hall: one of the most renowned art venues in the world, with 350 performances each year. Other prestigious institutions include the Royal Geographic Society, the Royal College of Art, and the Royal College of Music.

Shopping

South Kensington is a heaven for shopping addicts, a top London shopping destination, offering a great variety for everyone’s taste. Sloane Avenue and Fulham Road are known for their designer outlets, catering to fashion aficionados. But there is much more beyond “haute couture” in South Kensington: the area is also famous for its antiques stores and the eclectic mix of quaint mom-and-pop shops, selling a wide variety of wine, food, flowers, stationery, books, arts and crafts supplies, toys, accessories, and much more. The French presence definitely puts its mark on the shopping, with the delicious French breads, meats, cheese, and the French wine at places such as La Bagatelle, La Cave au Fromage, and La Vigneronne.

Restaurants, Pubs and Nightlife

For financiers tired from a long day at work or visitors whose feet need a rest after lengthy museum and store visits, South Kensington offers many outstanding dining places and cool bars. The diverse population of the district has reflected on the variety of restaurants and ethnic menus. Guests can enjoy European, including, of course, French and Italian cuisine, along with Chinese food and more exotic dishes from Argentina, Lebanon, India, Thailand, Japan, and Poland. Traditionalists and lovers of British meals will certainly find something to their taste as well. One restaurant worth noting is 1880 at The Bentley, boasting a great ambiance, royal treatment by the staff, and delicious food, all worth the steep price. Those in favor of the French cuisine should not miss Ambassade de l’Ile, offering distinctive flavours such as foie gras with asparagus tips and watermelon gazpacho. For fans of Indian food, the Bombay Brasserie is certainly a must. The Troubadour, founded in 1954, is a true South Kensington landmark which has seen guests such as Bob Dylan, Paul Simon, and Jimi Hendrix. The place offers a wonderful combination of live music, coffee shop, deli counter, and art exhibit.

Bars and clubs worth mentioning include Opal for fantastic cocktails, The Collection, where visitors can take a glimpse at movie stars and other celebrities, Eclipse or Boujis for their live DJs, and Kosmopol, known for top notch service and drinks.

Transport

South Kensington is also a great place for commuters, served by three subway lines: District, Circle, and Piccadilly and by more than a dozen different buses. A pedestrian tunnel provides access from the South Kensington tube station to the area’s museums. The station, which dates from 1891, underwent recent renovations over safety concerns and inadequate space, lighting, seating areas, and lack of phone booths.

Overwhelmingly, Putney’s history centres on the River Thames and all that means. The river is intrinsic in the character Putney has developed and it has become the place to settle if all things boatrelated appeal. From the highlight of the social calendar, the university boat race between Oxford and Cambridge, to the rowers’ lonely 6am training sessions, or feeding the ducks by the boathouses, the river seeps into every aspect of Putney life. Outdoorsy types will be in their element, in fact, as the water sports lifestyle is complemented by the acres of running and cycling space at Richmond Park, Putney Common or Wandsworth Park. For all Putney is a destination for athletes though, surprisingly few choose to reside there, no doubt outpriced. Instead, political and literary names have been born or chosen to live in SW15, including postWar Prime Minister Clement Attlee and latterly Liberal Democrat Nick Clegg.

Putney’s political past extends beyond famous residents and significant events in British civic history have taken place in this part of the capital. Most notably, Oliver Cromwell’s New Model Army was located in Putney for a time, and St Mary’s Church by Putney Bridge was the site of the Army’s historic discussions, the Putney Debates, considered to have played a major part in the foundations of contemporary democracy.

Community

As one of the more affluent parts of the Borough of Wandsworth, Putney could easily be mistaken for a posh town with loads of big private houses and very little community life. Not so. Putney’s community events and religious centres are wellattended, and the area has a thriving voluntary sector. Among the places of worship in the area, London’s first mosque can be found. The Fazl Mosque opened in 1926. Not only is Putney strong in the philanthropic sense, but it caters well for citizens from the council’s perspective, with community centres, a very good library and yet more sporting facilities, indicating that leisure is of primary importance here.

Housing

Putney is a popular and smart place to rent, not to mention an excellent area to settle with a family as it’s just that little bit more spacious and out of town. Putney property enthusiast, Dan Doherty, recommends going for a stroll down Putney Bridge Road to check out what’s on offer. There’s you’ll find a mix of flats and houses from the affordable to the ridiculous. As that road hits Wandsworth, you’ll find Riverside Quarter, an ultraluxurious complex, with two- and threebed lets. Expect to pay about £3,000 a month for a twobedroom flat. At the other end towards the high street, Putney Wharf is the equally if not more prestigious development, where monthly rentals can be around £4000 for a three-bed place. To buy, you’re looking at £1.2 million, etc.

Coming back down to earth, for those who can give the riverside views and penthouse suites a miss, there are several more affordable options on Putney Hill and along the Upper Richmond Road. Flats here are older and hardly pristine, but mainly homely and often with security and servicing. An ample threebedroom flat can be as little as £1,200, which is excellent for the area.

On the lanes behind the high street, you’ll find pretty little terraces interspersed with the odd new-build, low-rise apartment block, and some vaguely maritime architecture. There are some larger four- and five-bedroom places in this residential area as well. These are located down Felsham Road, Hotham Road, Quill Lane, Clarenden Drive and their offshoots. Be aware, though, that the main line trains run behind here, including through the night.

Shopping

Reasonable but nothing spectacular, Putney suffers a little from its location when it comes to shopping. Midway between Wandsworth’s Southside and Kew Retail Park, it has only a very small shopping centre Putney Exchange and handful of high street names like Gap, Cargo, Marks & Spencer, Waterstone’s, La Senza, Monsoon and Next. Some smart but low key ladies’ names can be found on the high street, including Jigsaw and Benetton, but there really is little else to inspire. A few treasures can be found along Lacy Road. For one, Shehan is excellent for decor, in particular ornaments, mirrors and decorative fixtures, and Farago is fantastic for gifts and trinkets. Another not to be missed if you’re looking for novelty is Jerusalem Gifts, a jokeshopcumfancydress store, selling all the bits and pieces you need for a celebration, streamers, gift wrap, balloons, and of course party costumes. Putney being quite the middle class neighbourhood that it is, you can also pick up some quality clothing and nearly new books in some of the charity shops on the Upper Richmond Road.

Eating Out

For good dining choices in Putney, head off the main high street where you’ll mainly find chain places like Pizza Express, GBK, Wagamama, Strada and Real Greek. On the Upper Richmond Road, Ole is a consistent choice for Spanish food. There are certain things it does really well, and the tapas is better value than the meals, but service isn’t brilliant. The Hare and Tortoise on the same stretch has really great prices and is constantly packed even early in the week. Further along, Talad Thai is excellent, with attentive waiting, and a specialty Thai supermarket next door if you fancy giving something a try yourself. Thai Square on the riverside is an impressive venue, with an upstairs restaurant with awesome views, and a bar turning into a nightclub where you can dance away dinner until 3am.

Pubs & Nightlife

Putney is pub territory, though, with 10 or 11 superb options and a couple of not so great ones. Among them, more fantastic places to eat can be found. Starting north of the river, The Temperance is a grand, twostorey affair with an array of continental beers and plenty of room to spread out with big groups of mates. Just the other side of the bridge, The Boathouse is a firm summer Pimm’s venue and a river bank favourite for rowers and rugby types, not least Matt Dawson. The Idle Hour is a fantastic wine bar on the main road, not only with an extensive selection of wines, but also promoting some obscure and organic grapes. And further along the high street, the Spotted Horse is a pretty spacious and sophisticated choice for a more restaurant quality meal and great wine again.

If something more hidden away is your thing, The Cat’s Back an arty affair with a creative menu is down in SW18 or the Coat and Badge, which has hearty meals and shows sports, is a good one for the lads. Another of similar ilk, where a wild night every weekend is guaranteed, is the Dukes Head. But ask anybody their favourite pub in Putney, and you’re bound to hear the reply the Jolly Gardeners, good for Sunday lunch and cider, or a cracking Friday night. It also gets in on all the events and is a brilliant place to spend the boat race as they usually hold a hog roast or barbecue. Further out of town, The Telegraph is good, if you don’t mind places that are super child-friendly for family weekends.

Putney is more limited when it comes to drinking til dawn, so most people end up reluctantly heading to Fez, the area’s main offering. Fez claims ‘legendary status by dominating the clubbing scene in SW15’ and this is true to a point. Whether that’s down to its ‘vibrant fun-loving party atmosphere’, though, is hard to tell. Something tells me those £2 Jagerbombs on a Wednesday night and free shuttle buses for Roehampton students are equally to blame.

Notting Hill is a cosmopolitan district known around the world for the annual Notting Hill Carnival, colourful Portobello Market and 1999 film Notting Hill. It’s a London version of Montmartre in Paris: a bubbling, vital artistic paradise stretching from Kensington Gardens on one end to Chelsea and Holland Park. Over the years it has built a fine reputation as a fashionable and posh area with its attractive white Victorian townhouses, terraces, front yards and top-notch shopping.

It didn’t used to be like this. For example in the 19th century Notting Hill was a working class area. They made bricks here, dug clay and raised pigs. In the beginning of 20th Notting Hill was all about art and alternative culture and little about money, success and high-class. In fact it was “one of the worst areas in London”. In 1950’s it was a destination for Caribbean immigrants and a decade later the scene for the Notting Hill race riots.

Housing

Today living in Notting Hill is a privilege not many can afford. It’s one of the London’s most desirable areas. Sharing a flat is the cheapest way to go – prices start from £140 pw for one bedroom. House and room prices are high; expect to pay £400 per week for a one bedroom studio flat, £750 pw for two bedrooms, £1200 pw for three bedrooms and £2000 pw and up for a house.

Is it worth it? Definitely. The houses in Notting Hill differ from rest of the London. Notting Hill has room. When you arrive here it feels like a fresh breeze after sitting hours in a cramped Tube. You can find stunning, naturally light and spacious houses, nice and cosy attic rooms with views to Kensington Gardens, and there are back yards with actual grass and room to stroll around after you wheel in the bike.

It’s a safe and quiet neighbourhood with a strong community of young families and successful professionals. The moment you leave noisy Notting Hill Gate Road and get lost on the tidy back alleys and streets you realise how tranquil it is – not at all like London, but closer to some tiny town in the countryside.

Community

There are four tube stations in the area: Westbourne Park, Ladbroke Grove, Latimer Road and Notting Hill Gate. It is a walking distance from beautiful Kensington Gardens, touristic Bayswater, shoppers paradise High Street Kensington and even more lavish area Holland Park.

Notting Hill Gate is not itself an attractive street but the leafy avenues south are; so is Pembridge Road, to the north, leading to the boutique-filled streets of Westbourne Grove and Ledbury Road and more notably to Portobello Road and its market. Under the Westway – the elevated section of the M40 motorway – is a small but busy Portobello Green Market. To see Notting Hill grandest houses stroll over to Lansdowne Road, Lansdowne Crescent and Lansdowne Square.

North of the Westway, Portobello’s vitality fizzles out. It sparkles back to life at Golborne Road, the heart of London’s North African community and the address of the excellent no-frills Moroccan Tagine Cafe. Westbourne Grove is a retail road running across Notting Hill from Kensington Park Road in the west to Queensway in the east, crossing over Portobello Road. It contains a mixture of independent and chain retailers, and has been termed both “fashionable” and “up-and-coming”.

North Kensington is the key region of Notting Hill. It is where most of the violence of the race riots occurred, where the Notting Hill carnival started and where most of the scenes in the film, Notting Hill were shot. Once well-known for its slum housing, property prices have now reached dizzying heights as hordes of international investment bankers buy up the stuccoed Victorian houses. Estate agents now call the super-rich area to the south Notting Hill when referring to Notting Hill Gate and Holland Park. However, North Kensington still has a high level of poverty and unemployment and a high-proportion of social housing for rent. This means that it retains the cultural and class mix that has always made it a vigourous, exciting and, at times, dangerous neighbourhood.

Shopping

In Notting Hill shopping is absolutely stellar. Notting Hill is the area for second hand books, used CDs and posters, retro outlets and antiques. The area is very diverse; one hand you can find plenty of grand restaurants and lounges but there are also quite a few cheap pubs and takeaways inviting you to step in. You can spend £4000 on a designer coat, then a few doors down find a second-hand boutique where everything is £5.

• Books – Halfway down, Blenheim Crescent boasts three notable independent booksellers. The Travel Bookshop is the shop on which Hugh Grant’s bookshop was based in the movie Notting Hill. Another well-known and well stocked bookshop is Blenheim Books.

• Clothes – Fiorentini + Baker London has quite a few celebrity fans, from Sarah Jessica Parker to Jennifer Anniston. The store stocks each latest collection, as well as a selection of accessories, jewellery and vintage clothing from other designers. Heidi Klein in Westbourne Grove stocks beautiful bikinis, swimsuits, sandals, kaftans and sarongs from various designers. The Jackson’s is a place to go for accessories: hats, bags, shoes – and even furry beanbags. Nakedly Nothing on Portobello Road sells own-label women’s clothing and accessories. Cath Kidston has delightful products from the Cath Kidston range – homeware, clothing, accessories, kids’ items and fabrics.

• Flowers – Wild at Heart is the place to go. Although high prices are the order of the day here, the flowers are gorgeous and the actual design of the building that houses this florist is simply stunning.

• Music and Film – Music and Video Exchange on Pembridge Road sells second-hand records, tapes, CDs and videos including rock, pop, soul, reggae and jazz. Rough Trade on Talbot Road has 12″ and 7″ singles, LPs and CDs. It’s also the place to pick up flyers to club nights and put up notices to find like-minded musicians to start bands with.

• Other Notable Shops – African Escape on Portobello Road has great selection of African goods, and at good prices too. Wong Singh Jones sells glow in the dark stuff, beaded curtains, 70’s goodies, general kitsch pieces and lots more.

• Portobello Market – There has been a market here since 1837. These days the southern end consists exclusively of stalls that sell antiques, jewellery, souvenirs and other collectibles. It’s very popular with tourists and is crammed at summer weekends. Its buzzing and cheery atmosphere is worth a visit even when you don’t intend to buy anything.

Eating Out

The Tea and Coffee Plant on Portobello Road is the nearest you can get for a “true village cafe”. Popular with locals, it makes a great coffee and has reasonable prices. Ping Pong on Westbourne Grove is a stylish Chinese and Japanese restaurant; a good place to go if you look an inexpensive evening out. The scallop and dumplings alone are worth the visit. Mediterreano is the sister restaurant of the Italian restaurant Osteria Basilico and is predominantly fish-orientated. Expect to spend £20 per person for an evening meal. Nicole Fahri’s Westbourne Grove cafe/restaurant/shop is a perfect place to have brunch, lunch or even just a coffee to regain your strength after a shopping spree. Alpha fish and chips on Ladbroke Grove offers traditional fish and chip with great prices.

Pubs & Nightlife

Bagclub Ladbroke Grove is a bar that serves a variety of beers, wines, spirits and cocktails as well as a selection of modern European and vegetarian dishes. Also has a DJ playing on Fridays and Saturdays. Prince Albert on Pembridge Road has wide selection of draught beers and other drinks, good food and a beer garden at the back. Quite trendy, too. The Cow’s a perennially popular pub, only a few minutes’ walk from Portobello Road. It’s an Irish pub with good, reasonably priced food, especially the fish and oysters. The Elbow Room is part of a chain of pool bars around London that concentrates on playing pool and not so much on drinking. Finally, the Notting Hill Arts Club is one of the hippest places in trendy Notting Hill. DJs are there on most evenings, and there is also live music.

Notting Hill Carnival

Notting Hill Carnival is the second largest street festival in the world (after Rio). It takes place over the Sunday and Monday of the last weekend in August. The carnival emerged as a response to the race riots in 1959 as an indoor event; in 1965 it took to the streets and has evolved into the massive event we know today. Part of the carnival is the parade which stretches out over a route roughly three miles in length. Numerous sound systems and stages are set up proving typically Caribbean music, as well as that more pop-chart orientated. You’ll also find many stalls selling food and drink to help get you in the spirit.

When Clapham comes to mind, anyone would be forgiven for thinking immediately of young professionals and that’s about it, but Clapham goes far beyond and covers a far vaster vicinity than most realise. From the highly desirable Clapham Old Town to the rather grimier Clapham Junction (which despite the name, is actually in Battersea) and everything in between, SW11 is one of the most diverse postcodes in south London without even realising it.

If you’re thinking of living in Clapham, you’re in good company. Clapham has been home to famous faces for centuries and ever since it was just a small Surrey village. Samuel Pepys lived out his last days there in 1703 and in more recent years this part of south London has seen residents include JK Rowling, Vivienne Westwood, Piers Morgan, Vanessa Redgrave and Ainsley Harriott.

Housing

While Lambeth council tax is miles heftier than neighbouring Wandsworth, there’s a lot on offer in Clapham and something to suit all budgets. Starting in Clapham North, much of the housing is three-storey period properties, many converted into flats, stretching towards Brixton along Bedford Road and Ferndale Road. This is the most affordable area of Clapham, along with the new-build flats in Clapham Park, and a shared house here starts around £400 per person per month. Don’t confuse Clapham Park with Clapham Common though, or you’ll be in for a shock. Much of the Clapham Park area has affordable housing schemes interspersed throughout council high-rise. The Clapham Park Project encompasses a regeneration programme aiming to seriously spruce up the area, bringing an additional 2,000 homes and improving the social living conditions for current residents. It was branded the best regeneration in the London area, outside of the five Olympic boroughs, by the former Mayor of London. In short, watch this space.

For a higher class of abode, more desirable locations surround Clapham Common. Sandwiched between Clapham Common and Clapham Park, Abbeville Road has Victorian terrace family homes. As a guide, threebedroom properties are upwards of £450,000. Directly lining the Common, they become pricier still. Way, way pricier. As you might imagine, properties overlooking green spaces in the capital are highly sought after. Stunningly grand four and fivebed houses and apartments fetch £1.5 to 2 million, and there are few renting opportunities particularly at the low end. To the west towards Northcote Road and Battersea Rise, there are some rentals, but very little shared accommodation at less than £650 per person per month.

Continuing down Cedars Road and crossing over Lavender Hill, the area behind Clapham Junction is predominantly residential terracing and estates. Ugly as hell from the outside, but inside a different story, the three York Gardens towers behind the station provide good starter homes and rentals with space for young people trying to get on the ladder. They allow a Clapham location for a doable price. Then Clapham Old Town towards Battersea Park sees rows of cottagesized twouptwodowns on quiet, trafficfree lanes and larger detached homes along leafy avenues.

Shopping

Most of Clapham’s shopping is of the High Street, identikit, unoriginal variety. At Clapham Junction you can find a hit and miss Debenhams, an okay TK Maxx, Boots, Superdrug, as well as Monsoon, Moss Bros and Joy in the station itself. Along Battersea Rise, however, there are women’s boutique clothing shops such as Galleria Conti, Katharine Bird and Elaine Cross designs. In the same vein, there’s Whistles and Sweaty Betty on Northcote Road and Oliver Bonas at The Pavement. Clapham Common also has its fair share of gift shops, such as Zeitgeist, adored by yummy mummies.

With the abundance of rental property as well as young people settling in the area, home and garden stores are numerous. Furnishings and furniture can be found on Abbeville Road and Queenstown Road, for instance, Taftan for (pricey) decorative bits, Tessa Fantoni and Ms Jones. There are also approaching 30 estate agents, a giveaway that property is hot. On Clapham High Street are more of the usual Superdrug, Boots, Dixons and supermarket stores. However, there are one or two gems. Clapham Books is a fantastic stockist and friendly with it, while Grand Passion is an interesting jewellery and gift shop.

Pubs & Nightlife

Depending on your sources, Clapham is home to one of the World’s Best Bars as well as one of the worst clubs known to man. Lost Society on Wandsworth Road is the former. With international awardwinning cocktails, Lost Society puts on a quality weekend night keeping it classy. They also run cocktail classes, where you can master a mojito or craft a caipirinha. At the other end of the scale, doling out overpriced mixers and charging a mad £15 to the annihilated dregs of Saturday night partygoers, infamous Inferno’s on Clapham High Street is one to be avoided any earlier than necessary. It is inevitable, however, that some big nights will end there, although an increasing number late licence venues is providing the area with some welcome alternatives.

Other places for big nights out and party, party, partying include Aquum, a recent addition to flashthecash Clapham, and The Loft where preening and pretension is part of the attraction. Inigo is far more chilled and yet high energy at the same time. The focus is on big beats and dancing til you drop, rather than who you are and what you look like. Then People’s Republic at Clapham Common is the best of the bunch, and the most fun night out you’ll find. The music is a bit formulaic, a bit backpacker hostel with rock anthems and pop, but the drinks are fantastic, because the bar staff are made to start at the bottom and earn their stripes, rather than in so many places where people come and go on a weekly basis.

All along Lavender Hill and Clapham High Street, there are smaller DJ bars of all manner and themes. Many are not particularly original or inspiring, but good enough for a couple to warm up, or for a not too mental week night. Among the better of these along the High Street is Rinky Dink, which has really good deals on drinks as well as a long pizza list. There’s also 64th and Social, B@1, Kazbar, a gay DJ bar with video walls, and GILT, as well as the independent cinema’s bar at Clapham Picturehouse. The variety on Lavender Hill is equally vast, with Sugar Cane, a Mahiki clone, and Ink Rooms, an American beer and rock joint.

For something more lowkey, Clapham has some great pubs. For sports, the Belle Vue at Clapham Common is a nofrills but comfortable place for a pint, and friendly service. The Grand Union on Acre Lane has artsy decor and a trendy feel, with a superbly thought out pub garden for riotous summer nights. The Sun in Clapham Old Town also has a great beer garden, although can get packed and involve long waits at the bar. Best to get a jug of Pimm’s and settle into your spot in the sunshine. Cosy and comforting in the winter months, on the other hand, there’s the Clapham North or the Falcon, which both do a good roast. Likewise, the Calf with its impressive burger selection and hearty meals is a winner in winter.

Towards Clapham Junction and Northcote Road are many more good pubs. The Merchant, sister pub of Balham’s beloved Clarence, is a nice one for big groups as it’s spacious and lively. In fact any of the pubs along this end of Battersea Rise are reasonable. The Merchant, The Northcote, The Duck and The Goat all pull in crowds and are down to earth. So busy they are that The Goat is a bit of a victim of its own success – it really does get crowded, but is worth a look for its beer selection if you can withstand the heat. Clapham South has a cluster of bars that complete the Clapham set. The Windmill on the Common, found bang in the middle of the park, is good all year round and always has space. Even on the busiest days you’ll be able to squeeze onto a garden picnic bench, or carve yourself out a corner in the stylish pub. Gigalum is a sparsely decorated bar for the too-cool-for-school types, and is always overflowing when any functions or festivals are happening. Glow Lounge and Firefly also draw quite a crowd because of their location along the Common.

Eating Out

Aside from the many pubs serving bar food, local restaurants cover every gastronomic fancy a Claphamite might conceive. Starting with trendy Japanese cuisine opposite Clapham High Street Station, Tsunami is a highend highlight, with affordable sashimi, tempura, sushi and seafood. Brasserie style fine dining can be found at 409 restaurant hidden away at Clapham North and Grafton House down the road in Clapham Old Town, or more French cuisine is cooked up at Le Bouchon Bordelais at Battersea Rise and several places down Abbeville Road, notably Le Chardon or The Abbeville. Some more smartish options are Spanish tapas places Carmen and El Rincon Latino, though the latter gets a bit raucous at weekends.

There are some great budget places to eat here too. At Clapham South, Pizzeria on the Green is popular and criminally cheap with constant 2 for 1 deals on tasty and original stonebaked pizza. The Pepper Tree noodle bar at Clapham Common is also excellent value for money and good quality, again always busy. If you like something a bit different and quirky, the tongueincheek Fish in a Tie (what an image) restaurant does European food in a style reminiscent of English hotel restaurants in the 80s. Dated decor and passe plates (think pork medallions, duck a l’orange, chicken Milanese, profiteroles even!) somehow work wonderfully. And all at prices that make you think they forgot about inflation. Lastly, growing small chain Bodean’s has an American diner rib joint on Clapham High Street.

For daytime lunching, if you’re that way inclined, or for weekend brunches, Clapham has a host of cafes and coffee shops. Breads Etcetera beats the others hands down on concept. As if its homemade organic breads weren’t enough of a draw, they’ve cleverly drawn up an allyoucantoast menu, where you get a toaster per table and all the preserves and spreads imaginable. The only drawback is the Sunday breakfast queues. Fine Blend opposite the Picturehouse down Venn Street is a brilliant alternative, with a much slower pace and very welcoming atmosphere. There’s also Macaron at The Pavement, a gorgeous little French patisserie.

Transport

Clapham has many many options for transport, including excellent train links into Central London and the South, London Underground services, as well as buses and night buses. The Northern Line run northeast from Clapham South to Kennington, via Clapham Common, Clapham North and Stockwell, practically in line with Clapham Road (A3). In addition to this, you can travel overland from Clapham Junction into Victoria or Waterloo in under 10 minutes. Trains run frequently, twice a minute at offpeak times. As well as local trains all over south London, including Croydon, Crystal Palace, Wimbledon, Kingston, Richmond, and Twickenham, lines from Clapham Junction serve Gatwick Airport and the South Coast. Major destinations in the South include Bristol, Basingstoke, Southampton, Windsor, and Guildford. Clapham Junction is also on the London Overland map with services to Willesden Green via Kensington and Shepherd’s Bush. While Clapham Junction is by far the major train station for Clapham, the much tinier Clapham High Street serves Victoria also. Both of these stations are in Zone 2.

Buses connect Clapham with the rest of south and central London. Major 24-hour routes include 37 linking Putney to Peckham east to west via Clapham Common, 88 from Camden Town, 345 from South Kensington. Additionally, there are busy day services like 35 Clapham Junction to Shoreditch, 137 from Oxford Circus to Streatham Hill through Clapham Junction, Clapham Common, Clapham Park and Brixton, and 155 Tooting to Elephant and Castle via Clapham High Street.

Brixton is lively, cosmopolitan and a true reflection of the mix of diversity that is London. Situated with zone 2 it is only a few miles from the west end and the city. By all accounts a great area to live in London, it is surrounded by parks and green spaces; Brockwell Park is spacious with a great view of the city on a clear day as well as the venue for open air festivals during the summer.

Community

Brixton has always been a hub of daytime and night time activity, SW9 is a heady mix of every culture you can think of, predominantly Jamaicans and those from the Caribbean, so if reggae music is your thing, Brixton is where you’ll find it. There is a fairly large Irish community based there too and that is often seen in evidence with their own blend of live music and excellent pool players. More recently there has been an influx of South Americans, and there is a new Latino vibe around Brixton’s famous market.

Housing

Housing options are varied, there has been plenty of new, young money arriving in Brixton for a number of years now, and property prices have risen accordingly. There are shared housing options, often in Victorian properties in which one would expect to share a fair sized house with kitchen facilities for around £100 per week on the private sector. The area is predominantly made up of Georgian and Victorian houses with a fair sprinkling of tower blocks and housing association properties. If you are of a foreign culture it may pay you to look into housing associations that specifically accommodate nationals from a certain country.

Shopping

Shopping In two words; Brixton Market. It’s a bustling, busy, feast for the eyes where one can purchase fruits, fish and vegetables from every corner of the planet along the rows of stalls in Popes Road and Electric Avenue (as in the Eddy Grant song). Everything you need for the kitchen pot, including the pot can be bought in Brixton Market, and in the summer it beats to the tune of reggae as you shop. On the High Street you’ll find all the usual brand names and a few exclusive department type stores too. But the market is where the bargains are, it’s open Monday to Saturday and mornings on Wednesdays.

Eating Out

Choices once again, to cater for every palette that visits of resides in Brixton. Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Tapas (c/o the Latino connection) the famous hot Jamaican Patties if you’re on the go. East African diners cater for those who come from the Horn of Africa, as well as some interesting and cool cafes in the market where you can have a coffee and do some work or simply watch the Brixton life roll by. There are the more commonly known eating venues on the high street, but if you venture into the market area especially along Coldharbour Lane you’ll find plenty of choices to suit any mood or preference.

Brixton Nightlife

Once again a winner, people travel from all over London and further afield to enjoy the Brixton nightlife. If you like your bars to be late opening, then this is the place for you. The Prince Albert has been a part of the Brixton scene for decades, with live bands and a selection of older and younger Brixtonians. Hootenanny on Effra Road is the place for live reggae and world music since a recent change of ownership. The Academy is a large venue that hosts the most famous bands regularly. Likewise, The Fridge next to the town hall and the Fridge Bar adjacent to it. Mass is for the bigger club goer and The Bug Bar below for the more intimate vibe. The Dogstar is an established bar and venue in the centre of SW9 on three floors. The 419 club next to the Prince Albert and also the Prince with cool lighting and DJ’s at the weekend. The Ritzy Cinema boasts 5 cinemas and two bars showing an eclectic mix of films from every corner of the globe. Jamm on Brixton Road is open until the small hours at the weekend, as well as Plan B on the high street. There are also plenty of late bars dotted around the area, some catering for the professional type, and other ‘old school’ pubs that have pool tables, character and haven’t had a lick of paint in decades. If you like to pop out for a quick drink at 11 o’clock without the ‘last orders’ rush, then Brixton is the place for you.

Transport in Brixton

As SW9 falls into zone 2, it is nearly what one would describe as ‘central London’ Brixton’s newly refurbished Tube station delivers you straight onto the high street and is on the Victoria line, the fastest in London, you are 5 stops (10mins) from Victoria and only 7 from Oxford Street and the west end. Train services run from Victoria as well and you’ll occasionally see The Orient Express passing overhead when in Brixton. You also have Clapham North quite near if you need the Northern Line and Stockwell is local too. The buses quite frankly will take you pretty much anywhere you need to go, west end, Victoria, Kings Cross, the city as well as plenty of choices to destinations surrounding Brixton. A typical ‘non rush hour’ journey from Brixton to Waterloo for instance will take around 15mins. In other words if you need to get anywhere in London you won’t have a problem if your starting point is Brixton.

Safety in Brixton

Despite the riots back in the 80’s, when Brixton was a bit of a tatty backwater, things have changed dramatically in the area with government intervention and plenty of money spent to enhance the area. CCTV is everywhere in Brixton and in many instances the place simply polices itself. One can feel safe at 4am in the morning because there are always plenty of people around, even at that hour.

Bayswater, a built-up district bordering Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, is an area of West London in the City of Westminister. It is one of the London’s most cosmopolitan areas, with the significant diversity of the local population added to by having one of the London’s highest concentration of hotels. In fact, when you first exit the Bayswater tube station, which is surrounded by small cafes, restaurants and shops, you might initially think that there are no real people living in this area! The streets are full of tourists with backpacks and suitcases trying to catch a taxi to the airport, looking for cheap accommodation or just standing on the street corner with a map of London, looking lost.

Once slummy, Bayswater was for many years the bad boy of the boroughs, dense with vice and crime comparable of that of Soho. Gentrification has changed it immeasurably over the last 50 years, though it remains the most cosmopolitan district of all of the boroughs, with a strong Arab presence, a substantial Greek community and vestiges of the African-Caribbean population. Once you leave the busy Queesnway (the main street in Bayswater) you’ll discover that Bayswater is mostly a residential neighbourhood and a great place to live.

Ricky Mallone has lived in Bayswater for 25 years and loves it. “The best thing about Bayswater is its location. Everything is within walking distance,” says Ricky. Notting Hill is just few miles down the road with some good shopping and cinemas. If it\s a nice day you can wander into Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens and get lost amongst nature. Paddington train station is literally around the corner. So is Edgware Road with its markets, shops and great restaurants. “When we had the tube strike this summer and the entire London was at standstill, Bayswater was still as busy as a beehive. We weren’t affected by the foolishness,” he adds.

Housing

Architecturally, the biggest part of the area is made up of Georgian stucco terraces and garden squares, mostly – although not exclusively – divided up into flats. The property ranges from very expensive apartments to small studio flats. There are also purpose built apartment blocks dating from the inter-war period as well as more recent developments, and a large council estate.

The cheapest places to stay in Bayswater are hostels. There are around 4000 people living in plentiful Bayswater hostels as you read this, ranging from just arrived in the country folk to young professionals from all over the world. If you’re looking for something more private you have to pay. Shared apartments start from £90 per week per person for one bedroom to £160 for a studio flat.

The rooms in Bayswater are not as roomy, spacious or light as they are in perhaps Holland Park of Notting Hill, but they are still better than central London. For a one bedroom apartment you’ll end up paying around £300 per week, for two bedrooms £500 per week, for three bedrooms £600-;£700 per week and for a house, prices start from £1500 per week and up.

Community

Bayswater has a population density of 17,500 people per square kilometre and you can meet most of them on weekends when you stroll down the Queensway to Westbourne Grove or High Street. Queensway, named after Queen Victoria who rode here as princess, is the heart and sole of Bayswater. It is one of the London’s most cosmopolitan areas. Newsagents are abundantly stocked with foreign newspapers, cheap Lebanese and Chinese restaurants stand on every corner, and late-night cafes are plentiful. Queesnway has one of the heaviest concentrations of eating places outside Soho. There are two things in Queesway you can’t miss when you visit: the ice-rink and Whiteleys Shopping Centre.

Whiteleys Shopping Centre is one of the main historic buildings in the area. It was built in 1912 by Belcher and Joass as a fashionable department store that stocked everything from “a pin to an elephant”. It was converted in the 1980’s into a vibrant shopping centre and it also has a movie theatre. When you get tired of Queensway head on to Westbourne Grove, which has become increasingly popular with the young, designer-led crowd and has some lovely boutiques, more well-to-do eating places and galleries. For a cultural experience visit St. Sophia Greek Orthodox Cathedral on Moscow Street.

Eating Out

Sheila’s Sandwich Bar on Craven Terrace does terrific bacon rolls and sandwiches. Prices are good. Lo Spuntino on Bayswater Road is not gourmet Italian food but it will tame your hunger and leave money in your pocket. Patisserie Valerie on Queensway is a branch of the Soho legend, making great pastries from quick snacks to celebratory cakes. Bella Pasta on Queensway is an Italian restaurant that offers quick pizza and pasta dishes to suit all budgets. Masala on Bishops Bridge Road is an award-winning Indian casual dining restaurant. It serves delicious, authentic and wholesome Indian food, covering dishes from street food favourites to tandoori grills and curries. Halepi on Leinster Terrace is a small Greek tavern. The seating is a bit tight, but that is part of the charm; the food’s flavourful and plentiful. Alanouk is a charming Persian restaurant on Westbourne Grove. It’s always packed in the evenings; meals around £15.

Shopping

Whiteley’s Shopping Centre is the heart of shopping in Bayswater. It’s luxurious and elegant, with a full range of contemporary shops, restaurants and leisure activities. Queensway Market, two doors down from Queensway Tube station, is an arcade with stalls selling various items, including women’s fashions and accessories. Nickelodeon is the home entertainment store; membership is free. Euro Souvenirs and Luggage on Queensway offers a market-style shopping for tourists; has a bureau de change. D Cobbler on Queensway does shoe prepares and key cutting while you wait. The tool shop opposite Whiteley’s sells electric lighting, hand and power tools, ironmongery and paint, and also cuts keys. Paperchase on Westbourne Grove sells an unbeatable range of unusual papers and art materials as well as all the more widely available stationery, greeting cards, gifts and wrapping paper. Bo Concept is a trendy interior design store for every room in the house. SCP sells contemporary furniture, lighting, kitchenware, rugs, books and accessories by some of the most famous design names and brands in history. JoJo Maman Bebe on Westbourne Grove has maternity wear, baby and child, nursery bedding and practical products collections.

Pubs & Nightlife

The Redan is a warm and relaxing pub on the corner of Queensway and Westbourne Grove. It has an exciting menu and divine wine. The Bayswater Arms next to Bayswater Tube station sells lovely wines, traditional ales and fantastic food. The Elbow Room on Westbourne Grove is a pool lounge and bar. The Beachcomber, squeezed between a money exchange and the Four Seasons restaurant, is a basement restaurant and cocktail bar with light music and dancing. Harlem on Westbourne Grove is a great last night drinking venue with several booths and tables, a full bar and a DJ playing some good eclectic tunes. The drinks are a bit pricey and you have to pay £10 for admission. Westbourne House is a trendy and uber stylish venue. There are also outside benches which are great during the summer for people watching.

The most striking thing about Balham is that it’s not very striking. Quite the opposite; the vibe is refreshingly down-to-earth and relaxed. With that city rush lacking, the pace is rather more suburban than in neighbouring Brixton or Clapham and Balham is all the greater for it. Immortalised by Peter Sellers in 1958 in his comic send-up of the town’s backward-thinking attitudes, Balham, Gateway to the South, in many ways much has changed; though there remains a total lack of pretension and something of a charming understatement. Perhaps that’s down to its agricultural roots, or maybe simply because anyone with airs and graces saves it for more well-to-do destinations a few stops in either direction on the Northern Line (think Clapham Common or Wimbledon).

It could be just that lack of pretension that’s drawing in the cool crowd though. In the last 10 to 15 years, Balham has seen a formidable increase in the number of strong independent traders, restaurants, bars and boutiques. They mix in with the longer standing family-run businesses – butchers, bakers… No candlestick makers, mind you, but some equally quirky commerce. You can swing by the wig shop on Balham Hill, grab a massage at the Chinese herbalist, before heading to Balham Bowls Club, not for a game of precision and skill, but for a pint and a homemade sausage roll.

Yet, it still attracts the high street hitters, Sainsbury’s, which has reportedly been there for over 130 years, Boots, WHSmith, Waitrose, and all the banks. So Balham isn’t altogether off the wall; just a random collection, a shopping hub, where some have stood the test of time rather better than others.

Housing

Living in the shadow of Clapham can have its upsides, not least that prices aren’t nearly as inflated. Balham also benefits from a less desirable zone 3 transport location, which keeps rents low and isn’t the end of the world, let’s face it. It’s also blessed with cheapest-in-the-country Wandsworth council tax, making the area an altogether sensible choice.

The local housing can be split into three broad types. On the north side of Balham, towards Clapham Park, there are ex-council converted flats and some basic terraces at seriously low prices for the area. The accommodation is the bare minimum, but is a cheap alternative to pushing further out to Tooting or Streatham. Other low-priced rentals can be found above the shops along Balham High Road, but caution should be exercised when looking into these places. Reportedly, it is so noisy along this arterial road that the bus announcements can be heard from some kitchens: “One-five-five… to… Tooting St George’s Hospital”. Then, on the roads lateral to the main street leading down towards Wandsworth Common, Balham ups its game, with generous family homes, four bedrooms plus. What else would you expect on leafy lanes named Chestnut Grove, Balham Park Road, Ramsden Road and Nightingale Lane?

Shopping

Balham has a strange mix of super smart and rock bottom budget shops, with relatively little in the middle. Hildreth Street is the place to start for all sorts of purchases, as it is home to the small market as well as funky boutiques. Balham Bou was ravaged by Mary Portas and now stocks some great labels, but a lot of the gift/clothes places rival it, in particular Bunka. Clothes wise, Oliver Bonas is also getting in on the act, spying a prime location on Balham High Road.

An independent organic butchers, Chadwick’s, Sunday farmers’ market and the organic supermarket, As Nature Intended, are other hints towards Balham’s affluent side. On the other hand, there are umpteen hardware stores selling anything you could think of, the obligatory 99p shop, and some brilliant charity shops. Especially well stocked and always impressive are FARA and Waldorf School Charity Shop, both on Bedford Hill. The rest are predominantly on Balham High Road. They’re reasonable, but very busy and less friendly, probably down to their prominence.

Eating Out

The range in Balham is quite astonishing considering its size and relatively shallow ethnic mix. The 2001 Wandsworth census puts the white British total at almost 70% compared to nearby Tooting where it’s less than 50%, meaning Tooting curry beats Balham hands down. Indian restaurants aside, however, there is much on offer. The Paddyfield is a fantastically authentic and good value BYOB Thai place, where the food tastes like Thailand and not a British regurgitation. For Mexican street food, Tacuba is pretty reasonable, or for another great budget option, Ciullo’s makes for a friendly Italian feast.

At the higher end, Harrison’s, which was opened in 2007 by Sam Harrison and Rick Stein, has a fantastic brasserie-style restaurant, more informal breakfast room that’s perfect for brunch, and a sexy cocktail bar serving some of Balham’s most professionally poured drinks. For French, Gazette is smart, if a touch pricey. And for a good old steak and bottle of malbec, the Cattle Grid opposite Balham overland station serves up great slabs of beef. Their ordering system is a little more American than some might like (think GBK order-in-advance-and-queue-at-the-till style) especially when you throw in the rather unromantic high benches, but as expected they know their meat. Lamberts also has class, with a modern European menu.

You also can’t move in Balham for tripping over coffee shops and – pardon the terminology – brunch stops. To name a few: Des Lys Patisserie, of course serving gorgeous pastries, Le Petit Bistrot, a winner with breakfast smoothies and anything on toast, or Chris’s Cafe, a good old-fashioned greasy spoon with a mean hangover fry-up. Bertie and Boo’s, whose name you might miss as they are too busy screaming about being an independent local coffee shop, is good to curl up in a window seat with a cupcake and a book, and is also very child-friendly.

Pubs & Nightlife

For most, Balham nightlife is synonymous with The Bedford and its renowned comedy nights. For all a visit to Friday evening Banana Cabaret is a must, there are many decent pubs with lateish licences that should not be overlooked. Always friendly, quirky and just a little bit cool is The Clarence. Rave reviews are well-deserved, and you can’t go wrong no matter what time you rock up, as the atmosphere is great whether you go for Sunday comfort food or an all-out Saturday night party.

Further up the road towards Clapham South, The Devonshire has a much less welcoming feel, but is at least consistent with food and drink. A better Young’s pub in the area is The Grove, more subtly located off the main drag and with staff who not only know what they’re doing but don’t come across like smiling is an added bonus. They show sports (well, rugby) here as well. The Avalon has come on leaps and bounds since the days of The George. Now an awesome gastropub with decent dining and a superb summer garden. Weirdly, The Avalon shows sports too, including football, and gets guys in shorts stopping by for a pint or two after a kick-about on Clapham Common. Weirder still, this doesn’t put off the diners.

Doing something a bit different, The Exhibit has an independent cinema, three bars and a restaurant. The cinema can be hired for private parties and packages can be put together. Midweek, there is a film and dinner offer too. Drinks are a bit hit and miss, but this unique venue is worth a look, even just to go to a bar with a bit of a difference.